How to Size a Submersible Well Pump
Pump sizing requires knowing three things: (1) required GPM at the house, (2) total dynamic head (TDH) — how hard the pump has to push water, and (3) well yield to avoid overpumping. TDH = pumping water level depth + vertical rise to pressure tank + friction losses in pipe. A pump must deliver the required GPM at the calculated TDH — this is shown on the pump performance curve.
Total Dynamic Head (TDH) Calculation
Example: Well depth 200 feet, static water level 80 feet, pumping water level 150 feet (drops 70 feet when pumping). Pressure tank is in basement 8 feet below grade. TDH = 150 + 8 (rise to basement) + 50 feet (equivalent friction in 300 ft of 1-inch pipe at 5 GPM) + 92 feet (pressure tank at 40 PSI) = approximately 300 feet TDH. Look up a pump that delivers 5 GPM at 300 feet TDH.
HP Guidelines by Depth
1/2 HP pump: adequate for wells under 150 feet, 5–7 GPM. 3/4 HP: wells 150–250 feet, 7–10 GPM. 1 HP: wells 250–350 feet, 10+ GPM. 1.5 HP: wells 350–500 feet or irrigation use. 2+ HP: deep wells over 500 feet or high-demand commercial/irrigation. Always verify with the pump performance curve rather than HP alone — HP is a rough guide.
Pressure Tank Sizing
The pressure tank stores water between pump cycles. Too small a tank = pump short cycling = premature pump failure. Rule of thumb: pressure tank drawdown capacity should be at least 1 gallon per GPM of pump rate. For a 5 GPM pump, minimum 5 gallons drawdown — a 20-gallon tank. Better: 10 gallons drawdown per GPM of pump rate. A 42-gallon tank for a 5 GPM pump is a good standard.
Common Pump Sizing Mistakes
(1) Pump rated higher than well yield — draws well down and runs pump dry. (2) Pressure tank too small — causes short cycling and premature pump failure. (3) Ignoring pipe friction — using undersized pipe creates head loss that reduces effective pump output. (4) Not accounting for elevation — a house at higher elevation than the well requires more TDH.